So, if you need inspiration for making your own sewing room, check that link out.

Choosing a sewing machine is very much like choosing a car. Test driving a bunch of machines is your best bet when choosing a machine. Pfaff, Bernina, Janome, Husqvarna-Viking, Brother, Singer, etc. I highly recommend going with a dealer as they do offer on-going support. Yes, you can go to Wal-Mart and buy a Singer or Brother but if you have problems or questions don’t count on Betsy-Jo the walmart employee to help you.

If you are not sure if you like sewing, maybe pick up a second hand machine for the beginning. If you decide you love it, go out and buy the best machine you can afford. Sewing on a quality machine can make a world of difference as to how well you sew. My first sewing machine was a Singer. I loved it because it was my first but it was so hard to control the speed. That was the only reason I sold it and bought my Pfaff Hobby 1042 model. I still have my Hobby but my Quilt Expression is my main machine. When this one dies (and I hope it doesn’t for a loooong time) I will probably invest in a commercial machine.

If you have any questions about this particular machine or about any machine you are interested in, just ask away.

How to Measure Curtains for Poles

Video by Natural Curtain Company

2. Stitch 3/4″ (2 cm) seam at each end of zipper opening; backstitch at marks. I basted the rest of the seam to help make it easier to press. Press under 3/4″ (2 cm) seam allowances.

3. Open zipper. Place one side face down on seam allowance of pillow front with zipper coil on seamline. Secure with pins, glue stick or basting tape. Using zipper foot, stitch tape to seam allowance only.

4. Close zipper. Spread pillow flat with right side up. Pin the zipper in place from right side catching the zipper tape underneath.

5. Place 1/2″ (1.3 cm) transparent tape (I only had 3/4″ tape so I moved the tape over a bit) along seamline as stitching guide. Starting at seamline, stitch across bottom of zipper. Pivot and continue stitching. At top of zipper, pivot and stitch to seamline. Pull threads to wrong side and tie.

6. Open zipper. With a seam ripper, take the basting out. Turn pillow wrong side out and pin front to back on remaining three sides. Stitch 1/2″ (1.3 cm) seam. Turn pillow right side out and insert pillow form or liner.

If you live in a very dry climate, it is very wise to store your thread in plastic containers. The dry air deteriorates cotton thread. Thread racks are not advisable storage for Albertans.

I did not know that.

1. Read up on the fabric I will be working with.

2. Read up on techniques that I should or could use for the construction of the garment.

3. Look at reviews on PR to see what other sewers have dealt with the pattern.

4. Make sure I have the proper tools.

5. Do a tissue fit and make adjustments as necessary.

**Differential Feed: On stretchier fleeces, adjust differential as necessary, to 1 or 1.5 for seams to lay flat.

THREAD:

Choose good quality, long staple polyester thread to match your fabric, or a shade darker.

NEEDLES:

Always begin the project with a new needle and because fleece is a knitted fabric choose a universal, stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have rounded or softened points that deflect rather than pierce the yarns. Choose the needle size according to the weight of the fleece. Use the smallest size needle possible that is strong enough for the job.

STITCH LENGTH;

In garment construction, use the fewest number of stitches per inch to be functional in the garment you are making. As a rule, this is 7 to 9 stitches per inch or approximately a 3mm to 4mm stitch length – conventional machine and serger. This length is appropriate for most loose fitting fleece garments with no high stress seams.

TIP:

If your machine balks at feeding the fleece, first try lengthening the stitch length. If more help is needed, lighten the pressure on the presser foot.

Flat Zippers:

Place garment on a flat surface. Using double-sided wash-away basting tapeadhere zipper to garment one-to-one (no pushing or pulling). Stitch in place using a long stitch length.

Easy Patch Pockets:

Eliminate uneven pocket edges and bulky seams by simply sewing the pockets flat onto the garment leaving the raw blunt cut edges exposed. Use wash-away basting tape to adhere pockets. Topstitch to secure.

ROTARY CUTTERS:

Bulky fleeces are much easier to cut when using the larger size 60 mm cutter. Choose the medium 45 mm rotary cutter with a wave blade or pinking blade when you want a decorative blunt edge finish. Since fleece does not ravel, eliminate bulk on collars, cuffs and pockets by using the blunt cut edge as the finished edge.