Just Sew It

Yesterday, I took a 3 hour class on making three types of pockets. The three types of pockets were patch, welt, and zippered welt. The class was held at a high school and the sewing machine were Elna 2004. I have tried two type of Elnas and the 2004 is NOT a good machine. It is very clunky and does not sew nice at all. My Pfaff is an entry level machine and it is still much better that the Elna 2004. Anyways, the following are instructions to make the types of pockets I learned to construct. The photos are not the best. I found out the next day that my lense were dirty:

Patch Pockets

1. On the pocket, iron on a fusible interfacing to the wrong side.

2. With the pocket lining, fold it in half lengthwise and trim the sides by 1/8″.

3. Fold the lining at a diagonal and cut a slit about 1 inch (which will be 2 inches once unfolded). This will be the opening for turning the pocket to the right side.

4. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance stitch the lining to the pocket with right sides together. When stitching, the top of the pocket lining and fabric have to match. The sides have to match too. Use pins to hold lining to pocket.

5. Turn pocket inside out through the slit cut.

6. Press. The top of the pocket will come down about 1/4″ to form a hem so to speak.

7. To cover the slit, iron on a piece of fusible interfacing.

8. Before placing pocket on garment, apply 3 strips of wonder tape or glue stick to the back side of the pocket. This will keep the pocket in place while sewing it in place.

9. Markings should be made on garment so the pocket can be placed correctly.

10. To sew pocket on, you can topstitch or blindsstitch the pocket on. Topstitching is easier. Topstitch close to edge on the corners. Sew a triangle.

Welt Pocket

1. Cut a piece of 2 inch fusible interfacing to the wrong side of fabric. Cut out your welts on the bias at 1″ wide.

2. Mark the placement line by drawing a 5″ line.

3. Mark the end lines.

4. With two pins, put pin at end line to mark placement for the right side.

5. Flip fabric over to right side. mark placement lines on the right side. Place welts that have been folded
in half and pressed. Raw edges of each welt should be placed on the placement line.

6. Pin welts on and mark the welt end lines.

7. Tape welts at each end. Stitch down the center of each welt from one end placement line to the other. Be exact.

8. On the interfaciing side of jacket put a few drops of sealant at each of the four ends.

9. Using scissors cut on the center line. Stop about 1″ from end and cut on an angle to each corner. Get very close to corner.
Do not cut into the welts.

10. From inside of the jacket place the right side of top pocket lining next to the top welt. Use glue stick/wonder tape to adhere lining to fabric.

11 On right side, stitch on welt lines again.

12. To finish welts and pocket lining pull triangles so flat and straight next to welts.

13. Now stitch pocket lining together. Move fabric out of the way. Stitch a curved pocket so lint does not collect in the corners.

Zipper Welt Pocket

The construction is very similar but no welt strip is sewn on.

1. First a placement line is drawn with the end lines added at each end.

2. Then about 1/2 cm on each side the placement line add another line.

3. With the fabric and lining together stitch in one direction from center to center. Then turn the fabric around and stitch center to center in the other direction.

4. Cut the placement line in the same manner as the other welt pocket.

5. Turn the lining in.

6. The welt opening should look like this:

7. Place the opening on top of the zipper. Topstitch the zipper in place. You can also stitch the zipper to the fabrics seam allowance.

8. Stitch the pocket as shown in the photo.